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Creaking is normally caused by the pipes rubbing against floorboards or joists when they expand and contract. If you can locate and reach the area they rub you can either make the space around the pipes a little larger or pack some insulation around the pipes to cushion them. If the rubbing is on a joist you can widen the space but never make it deeper as you’ll weaken the joist.
Most banging is caused by the pipes knocking against something like floorboards or walls. It might be that they are not secured properly and fast moving water is causing them to shake. If this is the case locate the noise and see if you can secure the pipe to avoid it hitting anything as too much movements in pipes could cause them to work loose at the joints and spring leaks.
Alternatively any movement in hot water pipes could be caused by the temperature of the water. Check the temperature on the boiler thermostat; it may be too high resulting in some of the water actually boiling. This creates steam in the system, which will cause air pockets and an erratic flow of water, which could be the cause of the banging. Try turning the thermostat on your boiler down.
Another reason could be a lack of water in the system, perhaps the mains supply has been switched off or the feed-and-expansion cistern may have run dry. This is normally in your loft and is fed water through a ball valve. Check this has not jammed or that any pipes feeding it are not frozen. If you solve the issue you may need to re-pressurise the system following the instructions on your boiler.
As with any problems related to your plumbing if you’re not sure or not comfortable tackling the issue yourself it’s always best to call a plumber.
There may be trapped air in the system (trapped air will rise to the top of the radiator, stopping hot water from rising). You’ll need to bleed the radiator.
Turn off the heating and wait for the radiator to cool. Place a towel underneath the radiator valve, and use a radiator key to loosen the air bleed valve. There will be a hissing sound as the air comes out. As soon as water begins to flow, close the vent again and wipe away any water.
Check both the temperature valve and the lockshield (isolation) valve are fully open. You will need to remove the plastic cover and use a spanner to adjust the lockshield (isolation) valve. If this works next time you call out a plumber ask them to balance the system (or alternatively if you feel confident you could do it yourself) as adjusting the flow of water on one radiator may slightly affect the output of other radiators. It’s unlikely that you would notice any affect but balancing makes the heating system more efficient.
How to balance a heating system balancing is basically ensuring that all your radiators have a similar heat output and heat up at the same rate. It’s a fairly simple job and if there are no major problems with your heating then the process will work. The most common reason for balancing is that the radiators nearest the boiler heat more quickly than the ones furthest away. This is because the flow of water is not coming into each radiator at the correct pace in relation to its distance from the boiler.
A single cold radiator could also mean sludge caused by rust may have built up and blocked the inlet and outlet pipes. You’ll need to remove the radiator and either replace it or flush it out.
You don’t need to drain the entire system; a single radiator can be isolated by closing off the valves at each end. Turn off the central heating and allow the radiator to cool before starting work.
if your water isn’t treated it can lead to oxidisation which will give you rust or ‘sludge’ in your system. One way to get rid of this is by power flushing it out. You can tell if a radiator has sludge in it because it’ll be cold at the bottom and hot at the top. To get rid of it you isolate the radiator, drain it, remove it, take it outside and hose it through. Alternatively try one of our central heating cleaners. You won’t need to hose through your radiator using this product as the chemicals will encourage the sludge and debris to come out when the radiator is drained, this will clean out the whole system.
It sounds obvious but first check that the thermostat is set and working. If that’s OK your pump may not be working. Test it by following the boiler operating instructions.
Alternatively, turn off the boiler, and feel for vibrations (this will tell you if the pump is on and the impeller is running). If the pump is running, but the outlet pipe is cool, open the bleed valve on the boiler (check your boiler manual to locate this) to release any trapped air. If the pump is not running it could be down to faulty wiring. If you can’t solve the problem with these checks it’s best to call a plumber.
TRVs are great because they automatically control the temperature of an individual radiator according to the temperature of the room it’s in. Generally, it’s not recommended to fit a TRV on a radiator in a room with a room thermostat, as the room thermostat needs to have a true reading of the room to control the temperature of the house. For it to do that, the lock shield of the radiator needs to be fully open, which can’t happen if it has a TRV. View Thermostatic Radiator Valve's
Gentle heat is the key. Arm yourself with a hairdryer, and gradually work along the pipe’s length until the water starts to flow. You can also use a hot water bottle or towels soaked in hot water. Never use a blowtorch.
It’s important to fix a leaking tap as the drips can eventually damage the sink or bath.
Find out the cause by doing the following
Is a tap spluttering or not flowing after you’ve drained and refilled your system? This is usually because of trapped air. Cure this by fixing a garden hosepipe to the kitchen cold tap (or any tap if you have a direct system), and the other end to the affected tap. Turn both taps on and leave for a few minutes. The mains pressure should force the air out of the system, but you may have to repeat it a few times.
Grease build-up and food particles can cause water to drain slowly from your sink or not at all. If it isn’t draining at all, there’s a complete blockage, so follow these steps:
You need to find the internal stop-valve (also known as the stop-tap or stopcock). This controls all water flow into your home, and it’s usually found under the kitchen sink. But it can also be in a utility cupboard, the garage or under the stairs.
It’s often located near the boundary of your property under a small CD-sized cover. If you have a water meter, it’s often in the same place as that. Not all properties have their own stop-valve—older homes and flats often have communal ones.
Don’t forget: The external stop-tap belongs to your local water supplier and you may need permission to operate it, even in an emergency. Not all water suppliers will give permission to use the external stop-tap, and if you operate it and cause damage, you may be liable for repairs.
Look out for gaps, mould and degradation on bath and shower seals. Leaks not spotted in these areas can cause significant damage that can affect other rooms, and lead to a large plumbing bill.
Replace sealant every three years (or earlier if you spot any issues) to avoid these issues.
A higher than expected water bill may suggest a leak. Check for leaks by doing the following:
Act quickly. Turn off the electricity at the main power switch, and the water supply at the main stop valve. Put containers down to catch the water if possible, and then either call a plumber, or fix the problem yourself if you feel completely confident in doing so.
If you’ve sprung a ceiling leak, act quickly. Turn off the electricity at the main power switch, and the water supply at the main stop valve. Put containers down to catch the water, and turn on all the taps and flush the toilets to drain the pipes and cold water cistern. Now investigate the problem, and decide if you need to call a plumber or whether you can fix the issue yourself.
Ideally you should do this every five years to avoid leaks.
Unsure if you should Do it yourself or hire a professional?