Before you get started

There are two types of locking systems in our range: Rapid Fit and Twin Clic. Both are easy to install, however Rapid Fit takes less time and is and easier to fit on your own, especially in a large room.

Laminate flooring is fitted as a "floating floor" and so should never be glued or nailed down. A floating floor needs space at the perimeter of the room to expand - flooring spacers help you achieve this "expansion gap".

You can cover the expansion gap at the perimeter with either skirting or trim. Using skirting will give the most professional finish, but you will need to lift existing skirting before you install your flooring. You can either reinstall it afterwards or replace it with new skirting (skirting needs to be at least 15mm thick to cover expansion gaps). Using trim is an easier option as it fits directly against existing skirting.

At door openings use a matching threshold bar to cover expansion gaps and neatly finish the flooring. If the floor is longer or wider than 8 metres (perhaps in a room that is open plan), leave an intermediate 10mm expansion gap at a suitable location, and cover it with a flat threshold bar. Expansion gaps around radiator pipes are covered neatly by pipe surrounds.

To calculate how much flooring you need, multiply the maximum length of the room by the maximum width to get the area in square metres and add 10% to allow for wastage. Always round up the number of packs you buy. Don't forget to take into account any chimney breasts when calculating the length of skirting or trim you need.

How to lay laminate flooring

1

Leave unopened packs of flooring lying horizontally in the room where they are to be laid for 48 hours.

2

Lay your underlay in rows at 90 degrees to your laminate flooring and butt the joints.

3

Planks should be laid lengthways, parallel to the longest side of the room and towards the main incoming source of light if possible. Start the row by placing the plank with tongue facing the wall. Use spacers to create an expansion gap between the floor and the wall or skirting.

4

Continue with the first row, interlocking planks, making sure the row is straight and parallel with the wall. Don't forget to maintain the gap with the wall with spacers. If you are laying in a kitchen or bathroom apply wood adhesive to all end and side tongue and groove joints before laying planks.

5

To cut the final plank to fit, turn it face down and lay it next to previous plank, tongue to tongue, using spacers to maintain expansion gap with the wall. Use a square to mark a line across it in line with the end of the previous plank.

6

Cut the plank with a hand saw, jigsaw or mitre saw. Then position it to complete the first row.

7

You can use the off-cut to start the next row as long as it is at least 30cm long. If the offcut is less than 30cm then start the next row with a plank cut in half to avoid joints in adjacent rows lining up.

8

Continue to lay planks in rows, staggering joints between planks in adjacent rows by at least 30cm.

9

When you come to fit flooring around a door frame, measure and transfer the shape of the frame to a plank and cut it out.

10

For a good finish, reduce the measurements slightly as you want the plank to fit right underneath the frame so that none of the subfloor is visible. Next you'll need to remove the bottom of the door frame with a saw.

11

Saw into the door frame with a handsaw, using an offcut plank and some underlay as a guide for height.

12

With the end of the plank under the door frame you will be unable to engage the tongue and groove, so remove the tongue with a chisel.

13

Apply wood adhesive and slide into place. Make sure you maintain the expansion gap at the door threshold.

14

To fit flooring around radiator pipes attach your plank to the last row fitted and slide it up to the pipes.

15

Using a combination square draw a line from the centre of the pipes onto the plank.

16

Now butt the plank up to the side of the pipe (maintaining the expansion gap with wall). Draw a line from the centre of the pipe.

17

Use a power drill with a 32mm flat bit to drill holes where the lines intersect. Cut the plank through the centre of the holes.

18

Apply wood adhesive on cut edges and slide the plank into position. Fix pipe surrounds in position to get a nice finish.

19

If you need to cut the last row to fit, flip a plank over and cut along the line as shown above, maintaining the expansion gap with the wall with spacers.

20

Do the same along the whole of the last row, flip planks back over and click into place.

21

When all flooring is laid, remove the spacers. Do not infill expansion gaps unless specified by product instructions. To cover expansion gaps re-fix your skirting to the walls, or if you left your original skirting in place, fit flooring trim.

22

To fit flooring trim use panel pins or wood adhesive, fixed horizontally to the skirting, not vertically to the flooring. The flooring must be free to slide under the trim to accommodate expansion and contraction.

23

Measure and cut a matching threshold bar to size and fit. To allow doors to be opened once flooring is installed, you'll generally need to remove them and shave them down.