Order Line 0330 123 4123
Order Line 0330 123 4123
|Tool List ||Safety equipment |
Not all laminate and wood flooring is suitable for every room, so check the pack instructions first. Wickes’ laminate, solid and engineered wood flooring is supplied with detailed installation instructions. The range on offer, the choice of methods of installation, its durability, and whether it’s compatible with underfloor heating is shown in Fig. 8.
Multiply the maximum length of the room by the maximum width to get the area in square metres and add 10% to allow for wastage. Always round up the number of packs you purchase.
All Wickes’ laminate, solid and engineered wood flooring can be laid on any smooth sub-floor, timber or concrete. The subfloor needs to be flat, dry and clean.
Do not lay flooring on to recently laid concrete. The thickness of the concrete will determine the drying time, but in all cases a minimum of two months is required for concrete to dry thoroughly. Allow around one day per mm for the first 50mm and then 1½ days for each additional mm of thickness thereafter. The subfloor must be flat. If it has hollows deeper than 3mm over a 1m length, level it first using Wickes’ Floor Levelling Compound.
For laminate and engineered wood floors, lay a 1000 gauge damp-proof membrane (DPM) sheet, or use Wickes’ High Performance Underlay, which has an integrated DPM. These can also be used for a solid wood floor that clips together. For solid wood floors that don’t clip together.
Don’t use a plastic damp-proof membrane over a timber subfloor. If a moisture barrier is required – for example at ground floor level – use bitumen-backed building paper and then the flooring underlay roll or soft board underlay. Failure to protect the flooring from moisture penetration from below may lead to board expansion and distortion.
Leave the unopened packs of flooring lying horizontally on the floor in the room where they are to be laid for at least 72 hours so the wood can acclimatise to the room’s temperature. Do not stack near radiators or in direct sunlight.
Laminate and engineered wood flooring are the easiest to fit because the boards simply click together.
|Fig. 1 Choosing a damp-proof membrane and underlay|
The fixing method is usually determined by the subfloor. Solid wood can be glued to concrete, sand cement screed or anhydrite screed subfloors; glued or nailed to chipboard; glued or nailed to plywood or OSB (oriented strand board); nailed to battens or joists; and glued or PTG flooring can be nailed to existing floorboards.
The subfloor needs to be flat – no more than a 3mm difference over a 2 metre length – and dry. If you are in any doubt about the dryness of the subfloor, use a liquid damp-proof membrane. This option is not possible with an anhydrite (calcium sulphate) floor.
1. Dry lay the first boards
Start at the longest wall and lay the first three rows dry with the tongues facing away from the wall. Do not lay the header joints in a line or too close to each other. They should be staggered by 200mm where possible and never less than 100mm.
2. Apply adhesive
Do not use straps or clamps to make solid wood flooring tight. Wood flooring needs to be able to expand naturally and adjust to the room temperature. Spread the adhesive evenly do not dab and use the spreader provided in the tub. Pull back the three rows from the wall and apply floor adhesive to the subfloor. Do not apply it to the tongue and groove. Lay the flooring on to the adhesive and insert the spacers to keep the required expansion gap of 15mm.
(see Fig 2) Sometimes it is easier to fit the flooring into the doorways if you remove part of the tongue from the flooring so it can be tapped together easily. If so, apply some PVA adhesive to the tongue to keep the flooring in place (see Fig. 3).
5. Remove spacers and add trims
When all the flooring is laid, remove the spacers. Leave the expansion gap empty. Fit matching threshold strips in doorways and scotia around the perimeter of the floor to cover the expansion gaps.
When you’re creating a hole for a radiator pipe, cut out the V-shaped piece of flooring behind the radiator pipe, not to the side of it. Trim the short end of the V so it will fit without touching the pipe. Apply PVA wood glue to the sides of the V, and wedge it into place from behind until the glue has set. Then fit the pipe surround.
If you want to get a professional finish, remove your skirting before laying your floor. Then replace and sit on top of your new floor
3. Stagger end joints
The joints at the end of each board should be a minimum of 100mm apart.
4. Cut holes for radiator pipes
(See Fig. 4).
5. Adjust doors and frames
See point 4 of Gluing a solid wood floor.
6. Remove spacers and add trims
When all the flooring is laid, remove the spacers. Leave the expansion gap empty. Fit matching threshold strips iin doorways and scotia or new skirting around the perimeter of the floor to cover the expansion gaps. Use 30mm panel pins to fix edge scotia to the skirting boards to hide the expansion gaps.
To avoid splitting the scotia, snip the head off one of the pins using pincers or pliers, insert the pin into the chuck of a power drill, and use it to pre-drill pilot holes. Fix edge scotia by nailing horizontally to the skirting boards, not vertically to the flooring. The flooring must be free to slide under the scotia to accommodate expansion and contraction.
Nailing to joists or battens
When nailing PTG flooring to joists at ground level it is recommended that you cover the joists with a bitumen-backed building paper to protect against moisture. Do not use a polythene membrane. Ensure that the air bricks are clear of debris so that air can circulate freely below the flooring to prevent damp.
|Fig. 8 Installation methods for laminate and wood flooring|