PVCu Profiles and Boards - Good Idea Leaflet 104

The majority of the profiles are extruded PVCu but some which require more thickness or greater strength have a low density cellular core which, especially in the case of the cladding, further improves the thermal qualities of the products. All items are coloured white all through so that if cut ends are ever visible they do not need to be painted or otherwise disguised. In fact, with virtually all projects cut ends are capped or concealed behind another profile as will be seen.

All the profiles, boards, etc., are designated as having a Class 1 Surface Spread of Flame rating when tested under BS476 Part 7 1997.

Since the profiles stocked are for specific purposes, (a) cladding, (b) fascias, soffits, and bargeboards, and (c) window and door reveal trims, architraves and skirtings, we have subdivided this leaflet into separate sections to cover each topic on it's own.

Cladding

The cellular cladding is used outside and fitted horizontally. Each length has an effective coverage of 125mm and the thickness is 18mm. It is fitted to our 19 x 32mm softwood battening on walls using stainless steel nails.

Note: The use of anything other than stainless steel nails will result in staining.

Diagram A shows the profiles available in the cladding range including the cladding itself. Most are shown as they would be used.

The bottom edge trim is secured to the vertical battening and forms a base for the above cladding.

The top/vertical edge trim is a two part extrusion used to neatly conceal the vertical ends of the horizontal cladding. It is also used to cover the top edge of an area of cladding whether this finishes in a full or part width piece of the cladding profile.

Internal or external angles are finished with another two part profile. It can be used for either purpose.

Butt joint trims neaten joins between lengths of cladding in long runs ensuring economical use of lengths and reducing waste.

Project Shopping List

The following products make up the basic range:-

Product Description	Qty	Code No.
2.5m lengths 125mm wide external cladding	Pack of 5	162607
	Single	162608
4m lengths 125mm wide external cladding	Pack of 5	162609
	Single	162610
Cladding butt joint trim	Pack of 10	162611
30mm Stainless steel cladding nails	Pack of 100	162612
2.5m lengths internal/external angle trim	Single	162613
2.5m lengths top/vertical edge trim	Single	162614
2.5m lengths bottom edge trim	Single	162615
2.4m lengths 19 x 32mm battening	Pack of 8	100808
	Single	107061

Work Sequence

1. Calculating requirements
2. Fitting battening
3. Fitting edge profiles, corners, etc
4. Fitting the cladding
5. Finishing off

1. Calculating Requirements

To determine the amount of horizontal cladding required for a job the first step is to divide the height of the area to be covered by 125. This will tell you how many cladding widths will be needed to fit in the space. For example, a wall height of 2450mm divided by 125 gives a figure of 19.6. Rounding the figure upwards means that 20 cladding widths will be needed, the top one being cut to fit.

So far as the lengths are concerned, and bearing in mind that butt joints can be used, you can work out whether the 2.5m or 4m pieces are best used to make up each run. Given a wall 3.6m long, clearly the 4m lengths would be best, so our example wall at 2.45m high x 3.6m long would require 20 x 4m lengths of cladding.

Determine the quantities of internal/external angles, bottom edge trim, and edge trims required by measurement.

Timber battening will be required to fit all round the perimeter of the area to be covered and at maximum 600mm centres in between. Battening will also be needed around window and door frames and behind all bottom, edge, corner, and top profiles. The use of battening leaves a necessary minimum 20mm air gap between the cladding and the wall. Battening must be securely fixed.

If the cladding is subject to extreme weather conditions a breather membrane should be fitted behind the cladding and batten network.

Fitting cladding and other PVCu profiles should not be installed in temperatures below freezing (0°c) or above 25°c since this will lead to possible expansion and contraction problems.

Sufficient Nails will be required to fix the profiles to the battening. All finishing trims must be fixed to a maximum of 600mm centres, but for exposed elevations reduce this to 400mm.

2. Fitting Battening

Battening is secured to walls with screws and plugs, or masonry nails. Ensure that the battening is flat and level, packing out where necessary on uneven walls so that when the cladding is applied it does not develop curvature following wall contours. At internal and external corners secure battening as in Diagram B to ensure that the profiles can be properly fixed to it. Make sure that wall perimeters are fully battened, that window and door frames are battened, and that there are vertical battens at not more than 600mm centres for horizontal cladding. Diagram C shows a typical battening layout.

3. Fitting Profiles, Corners, etc

Diagram A shows all of the profiles in typical situations secured to battening. The bottom edge trim trim is always first to be fixed using 30mm stainless steel cladding nails driven in no more than 6mm from the top of the profile. Make sure that the profile is horizontal see Diagram E. The top/vertical edge trim should be checked for vertical alignment. see Diagram F

At corners, separate the two parts of the internal/external trim and only secure the rear section to the battening. Diagram H.

Fit only the rear section of the top edge trim at this stage.

Diagram D shows a plan view of the battening and vertical profiles on a wall with both internal and external corners.

4. Fitting the Cladding

Horizontal cladding commences at the bottom of the elevation and proceeds upwards. The first length sits over the bottom edge trim as in Diagram E. It should be pushed firmly down to fully engage over the upstand.

The lengths should be cut 10mm shorter than required leaving a 5mm gap at each end, between the cladding and the edge trim. Diagram F. The same gap must be left when fitting up to corner profiles.

As each length of cladding is fitted secure it to the battens behind with the cladding nails at not more than 600mm centres through the marked groove.

Nailing from the centre back to the outer edge is advised. The next length of cladding will conceal the previous fixing.

The adjacent cladding is then slid into position again leaving a 5mm gap and nailed into the batten. The cladding to be fitted above these boards will complete the Butt Joint assembly as shown in Diagram I.

Note: At the top of the cladding, if a length has to be cut in width to such an extent that it is not remaining vertical sitting against the top edge trim, use offcuts of cladding to pack it out as in Diagram G. There should be an 5mm gap between the top of the cladding and the underside of the fixed section of the two part trim.

5. Finishing Off

To complete the cladding fit the outer section of the edge trim and any internal/external corner profiles. Using a block of wood to protect the surface, tap the profile into place so that the nibs engage. Do not knock the profiles in so hard that they become distorted. The profile face should be on the same perfectly vertical plane as the cladding face.

Fascias, Soffits, and Bargeboards

Painted timber fascias and bargeboards suffer badly from the effects of the weather and need regular maintenance. In due course they have to be replaced and this is best done with our PVCu profiles and boards which eliminate future maintenance as well as looking good.

The fascia boards can be fitted to existing timber if there is minimal rot on the fascias and bargeboards.

In this case all the rotten timber needs to be removed and replaced with timber treated with a wood preservative. The fascia and bargeboards can be fixed to existing timber on the property. If however the fascia's & bargeboards are totally rotten, all the boards need to be removed and rafters need checking for any rot - again treat all affected areas with a wood preservative allowing you to then fit a new 6mm timber backing board against the rafter. This will create a straight edge and support for the new fascia board.

If in doubt always replace the boards to ensure peace of mind.

To help maintain air circulation within the roof space it is recommended to use the Wickes Ventilated Soffit Trim.

The profiles and boards required for most situations are shown in Diagram J.

The window/Fascia boards are available in 175mm or 225mm widths and the inside of the bottom leg allows the soffit board to be secured. The leg also provides a link for an insect proof vented soffit trim to soffit board, which ensures that ventilation in a loft space is not blocked. Corner and joint trims are supplied for the fascias and the Soffit has a universal board channel. Soffit butt joints and soffit ventilators are available to complete the installation

Project Shopping List

Product Description	Qty	Code No.
2.5m lengths 175 x 9mm soffit/reveal liner board	Single	162626
4m lengths 175 x 9mm soffit/reveal liner board	Single	162627
2.5m lengths 225 x 9mm soffit/reveal liner board	Single	162628
4m lengths 225 x 9mm soffit/reveal liner board	Single	162629
2.5m Soffit butt joint trim	Single	162630
30mm Soffit fixing pins	Pack of 10	162631
2.5m Ventilated soffit trim	Single	162632
2.5m lengths 175 x 9mm Window/fascia board	Single	162633
4m lengths 175 x 9mm Window/fascia board	Single	162634
2.5m lengths 225 x 9mm Window/fascia board	Single	162635
4m lengths 225 x 9mm Window/fascia board	Single	162636
2.5m Universal Board Channel	Single	162637
Fascia corner joint trim	Single	162639
Fascia butt joint trim	Pack of 2	162640
50mm Fascia fixing nails	Packs of 50	162641
2.5m lengths 300mm Soffit board	Single	162643

Work Sequence

1. Removing the old fascias, etc.
2. Fitting the boarding

1. Removing the Old Fascias

Step number one must be the removal of guttering attached to the existing fascias. If the guttering is old and in less than perfect condition, now is an ideal time to replace it. Replacement gutter brackets should be fixed through the fascia boarding to rafter ends or secured to the boarding with cavity fixings.

All existing fascia material should be removed and structural timbers checked for any evidence of rot and replaced where required using treated timber. Likewise the roofing felt should be inspected for any sign of damage and replaced accordingly.

If the timber fascias have rotted completely, a new 6mm external quality plywood backboard should be secured to each rafter to ensure that the new boards follow a straight line.

2. Fitting the Boarding

All boarding is secured to roof timbers with the 50mm A4 stainless steel fixing nails. The fascia boarding is secured to rafter and/or joist ends with two nails, one at the top and one near the bottom. Fixings along the run must be at maximum 600mm centres which may mean fixing to every rafter foot or joist.

Since the 9mm thick board is not load bearing the board needs to be fitted closely under the eaves tiling.

The foam soffit must also be secured with 2 x 30mm A4 Stainless Steel Fixing Pins and a maximum of 600mm centres. Alternatively, the hollow soffit board can be positioned on top of fascia board leg. The board is located into the Universal Board Channel and the plank is secured to the support batten using the same 30mm A4 Stainless Steel Soffit Fixing Pins. If ventilation is required the fascia and soffit can be linked by the Soffit Ventilator, remembering that if the Hollow Soffit is used the location leg needs to be removed, allowing it to fit into the Soffit Ventilator. Diagram K shows a variety of fascia and soffit layouts to suit most situations.

When fitting the Butt Joint Trims, they need to be positioned against a rafter end and the boards they need to be cut back by 5mm for any expansion. They are fitted by gluing one side leaving the other side free for any expansion or contraction. See Diagram L.

Diagram M shows how to create a box end, which links the bargeboard to the fascia board. The Fascia Corner Joint trim can be cut down to create the outer corner requirement and the same profile can be used to its near maximum length to create the joint between the fascia and bargeboard making for a neat box end detail.

For bargeboards use either the utility boarding cut to width or the fascia boarding if this is to stand off the home wall.

Skirting, Architraves, Sills and Linings

The use of this range of products shown in Diagram R allows for the neat finishing of window and door reveals, using a range of cloaking fillets such as architrave, ogee skirting and quadrant mouldings. The boarding previously used for fascias are now also available for internal reveal liners or windowboard.

When any plaster line has been broken when a window has been replaced this can be rectified by using a small range of cloaking fillets or quadrants to cover the area needing attention. These applications are shown in Diagram N. To complete the reveal liner totally, use the window/fascia profile or reveal/soffit profile as shown in Diagram O.

When fitting the internal windowboard secure it with a fixall adhesive and the board is located into the Universal Board Channel, which makes for a neat installation. The window board end caps are glued into position as shown in Diagrams P and Q