Before you get started

Take great care when fixing into walls and floors. Use a cable, pipe and stud detector to help find safe fixing points.

Changing an old basin for a new one is a straightforward process, as long as the existing supply and waste pipes connected to the basin do not need too much adjustment to their position.

If you are changing the floor height in your bathroom, waste and supply pipes may also need to be adjusted.

When fixing any ceramic item in place, take great care when tightening screws. Do not overtighten and always use a hand-held screwdriver to avoid any damage that a power tool might cause.

Flexible connectors are the simplest way of reconnecting supply pipes, especially if any small adjustment in position is required.

Waste pipes may be adjusted by cutting a new length of waste pipe and joining it to the existing pipe using pushfit joints.

A basin may only be wall mounted (with no pedestal support) if it has the appropriate fixing holes, and is supplied with the correct fixings recommended by the manufacturer. In a masonry wall, it is no problem to get secure fixings, but for hollow stud walls, for solid support, ensure that fixings go into studs. It may be necessary to cut a section of plasterboard away, fit a nogging (horizontal wooden support) to align with the basin fixing points, and re-plasterboard the hole and plaster over before fixing the basin on the wall.

Some basins are fitted into vanity units, where the surface of the unit takes the basin weight. Many modern designs actually put the basin on top of the unit. In all such cases, ensure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions when assembling.

Use an extra person to support the basin and make the job easier.

If you plan to alter your bathroom, always ask a qualified electrician to advise whether or not the bonding and earthing arrangements in your home need to be improved for safety reasons.


When you have unpacked the kit, check that you have all the tap and waste parts before starting to assemble the basin.


Assemble the taps as required and directed by the manufacturer. This may mean fitting the handles or, as shown in this case, the spout.


Fit the short threaded bar into the underside of the tap. It is only necessary to hand tighten this. Screw in copper supply pipes either side.


Ensure the washer is in place on the base of the tap body. Thread the copper pipes and tap assembly through the hole at the back of the basin.


Push the metal and rubber washer onto the threaded bar. Tighten to the underside of the basin by doing up the retaining nut.


Screw the waste system in place at the bottom of the basin, again, taking care not to overtighten the unit. Check washer positions carefully.


As the tap has a pop-up waste, thread the long bar through the hole at the back of the tap, down through to the basin underside.


Connect the long bar with the shorter bar that joins the actual trap section of the waste, using the small hinge block.


Place the new pedestal for the basin approximately in position, in front of supply and waste pipes.


Lift the new basin into place and gently rest it on top of the pedestal. You will need a helper for this.


Adjust pedestal and basin to ensure that the basin is level and sits comfortably. Use a spirit level.


When happy with the position of the basin, mark through the basin fixing holes, under the basin, with a pencil.


Mark through the fixing holes for the pedestal and draw a pencil guideline around its edge onto the floor.


Drill fixing holes for the basin, as marked, into the wall and push in the appropriate-sized wall plugs.


Drill pilot holes for the pedestal, where marked. Here, no plugs are needed as the floor is wooden.


Reposition the pedestal and screw it in place. Use any washers supplied and do not overtighten fixings.


When the pedestal is securely positioned, reposition the basin on the pedestal and fix it in place. Screw through the fixing holes with a screwdriver.


Connect waste pipes to the bottom of the waste system. Do not overtighten plastic compression connections. Check that washers are correctly positioned.


Connect the copper pipe tails to the flexible connectors. Here a push-fit joint is used. You may have ones with compression nuts to tighten.


After you have reconnected all pipes, turn the water back on and turn on the taps. Check for leaks on the supply as well as the waste pipes.