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If you use nails or screws to fix a sub-floor before tiling, use a cable, pipe and stud detector to help find safe, secure fixing points.
How many tiles you need can be worked out by simply dividing the floor area in square metres by the pack size.
Length of room x width of room = number of square metres.
Square metres ÷ pack coverage = how much you need (add 10% for cutting waste).
Concrete floors can be tiled on direct as long as they are flat, sound, level, clean and dry. The floor must contain an integral damp proof membrane – standard in modern homes, but not always in older properties.
Floorboards must be covered with thin ply or flooring grade hardboard (unless otherwise directed) to provide a sound, flat surface for applying tiles. Ply is easily cut with a hand saw, or jigsaw, cut hardboard with a retractable knife. Stagger joins of adjacent sheets.
There are alternatives to the grid design, here. You can stagger joins, or consider going diagonally across the room for a diamond-effect pattern. Whichever you choose, tiles are laid in the same way; just adjust the start position accordingly.
The starting point is important to establish a balanced design that allows for manageable cuts. If possible, make sure that you don't have to cut small slivers on any wall edge of the design.
A starting point square to one wall is important. If you dry lay a row of tiles close to one wall, you can then measure across to the opposite wall to check what size of cut tiles this position will leave. You can then adjust the dry laid row until a good balance is achieved. Check at each end of the row, as this will help to square up your starting position relative to the walls.
Leave tiles in the room they are to be laid in for at least 24 hours, to acclimatise to conditions before you lay them.
Most carpet tiles don't require adhesive and are laid dry. You can use double-sided tape in the first row, but, then, unless guides specify, lay dry. Some tiles have adhesive tabs, so replacing a damaged one is easy: simply lift out the old one and fit in the new one.
Cork tiles are normally self-adhesive with a finished surface, so laying instructions are as shown here. Sometimes they require a separate adhesive and may need to be sealed after laying. Wooden parquet tiles are also laid in a similar fashion as shown in this guide. Like cork tiles, they may require a sealer once laid.