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Planning & preparation

  • Here we will show you how to install and seal a standard, straight, closed in acrylic bath with double tap holes, as well as how to fit taps, bath waste, trap and bath panels
  • There are many other bath designs available but bear in mind that they may have different fitting requirements, so be sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions
  • If you are replacing an existing bath and the pipework only needs minor adjustments, then installing your new bath will be a reasonably straightforward task
  • If the bath is a new addition, or if the position of the bath is being moved and plumbing needs to be rerouted, then it’s best to call in a qualified plumber
  • Before starting, remove the protective covering and carefully check the bath for any signs of damage
  • Ensure you have all the necessary parts, fittings and tools before starting the project
  • Be sure to choose taps that are compatible with the pre-drilled holes in your bath
  • Some baths come with anti-slip features and bath grips but if yours doesn’t, consider adding some to make getting in and out of the bath safer
  • If you are planning to install an over bath shower, then choose a bath with a flat rim so a shower screen can create a watertight seal
  • We are fitting a ‘closed in’ bath so don’t need to worry about the flooring as it won’t be visible. However, if you are fitting a freestanding design, then you will need to lay your chosen flooring prior to fitting
  • Turn off the water supply at the mains before carrying out any plumbing work

Do it right

  • Whilst not essential, it’s a good idea to cover the bathroom floor with a protective sheet whilst removing an old bath
  • Carefully measure and mark out all fixing points before drilling
  • Take care not to over-tighten fixings as this can cause damage to the bath
  • Be sure to always check manufacturer’s instructions to ensure you are using use the correct length of screw when assembling the bath
  • If you need to drill through tiles, apply some masking tape to the tile to stop the drill bit from slipping
  • When applying silicone sealant, fill the bath with water as this will ensure the sealant doesn’t pull away from the tiles when the bath is used

Staying safe

  • Use a pipe, cable and stud detector to check the areas where you plan to drill
  • Wear safety goggles when drilling
  • A bath is quite heavy and can be difficult to move so ask a friend to help out with any lifting
  • Wear protective gloves when applying silicone sealant


  • Always use cleaning products that are appropriate for your cabinets to avoid damaging the material. You should be able to find guidance on this in your manufacturer’s instructions

How to fit a bath & taps


Before removing the old bath, locate the stopcock and turn it clockwise to turn off the water supply.


Remove all fixings and disconnect the taps, waste and overflow from the old bath. Then, ask a friend for help to lift and dispose of the old bath.


To release the cradles, remove the transit cradle fixing screws. Put these to one side as they will be needed to attach the cradle to the underside of the bath.


Following the manufacturer’s instructions, assemble the cradles and four feet of the new bath. Be sure to always check manufacturer’s instructions to ensure you are using the correct length of screw.


Using the screws you put to one side, attach the cradles to the underside rim of the bath by hand tightening the fixings. If the screws are particularly hard to tighten, start them off with a cordless screwdriver and then finish by hand.


Then, attach the centre foot and bracket with the supplied fixings.


Carefully fit the taps; you may find it easier to lean the bath up against the wall whilst doing this. The fitting instructions and fixings will vary depending on your tap fitting, so be sure to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.


Attach the waste by adding some silicone to the supplied washer and securing it in position with the provided screw. Then, fit the overflow.


Calculate the required height of the bath by measuring the height of the bath panel and adding the height of the bath rim that the panel will butt up to.


Using a pencil, mark a line on the wall to show where the top edge of the bath will run.


Using the supplied self-tapping screws, attach the two wall brackets to the side of the bath that will be up against the wall.


With some help, lift the bath into position and adjust the feet to get the bath to the required height.


Use a spirit level to double check the level of the bath and adjust if necessary. If your bath has grip handles, bolt them into position on either side of the bath.


Mark the outline of each of the feet onto the floor. Then, mark the position of the guide holes.


Repeat this process for the position of the wall brackets and their guide holes.


Move the bath out of the way before using a pipe and cable detector to make sure all the fixing points are clear of any obstructions.v


Drill the holes for the feet and wall brackets using a drill bit that is suitable for your surface, and insert wall plugs if necessary. If you’re drilling through tiles, apply some masking tape to the tile to stop the drill bit from slipping.


Apply a bead of silicone about 1cm below the pencil line that marks the top of the bath then, with some help, lift the bath back into position and check the level for the final time.


Using the self-tapping screws, secure the bath to the floor and wall through the feet and wall brackets.


Connect the bath trap and waste pipe and then tighten the compression fittings.


Next, connect the taps to the water supply using flexible pipes, making sure the connection is firm, but not overtightened.


Turn the water supply back on and check for any leaks around the taps, pipe joins and the plughole. Don’t forget to test the overflow for leaks too.


To mark the position of the bath panel, hold a long spirit level vertically in each of the bath’s corners and make a pencil mark onto the floor.


Allowing for the width of the panel at its base, which is often around 12mm, move back in from the pencil marks and connect the marks to create a guideline around the bath.


Check the area with a pipe and cable detector before fixing battens to the guideline with short screws.


Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fit the panel; some will require clips underneath the rim and to be fixed to the batten with small screws.


In order to create a watertight seal, you’ll need to apply silicone sealant to the join between the bath and the wall. Start by filling the bath with water as this will make sure the sealant doesn’t pull away from the tiles when the bath is used.


Apply masking tape to the edge of the tiles. Then secure the sealant into a cartridge gun. You may need to trim the nozzle of the sealant if the bead is too small.


Gently squeeze the trigger to slowly apply the sealant along the joint.


Use a sealant shaping tool to give a smooth finish and remove excess sealant. Then carefully remove the masking tape. Don’t empty the bath of water until the sealant has dried.