Here we will show you how to install a Ceramic Basin with Full Pedestal, as well as how to fit the trap, basin waste and taps
The fixings you’ll need will depend on the wall type you are fixing to. Bear in mind that the fixings provided tend to only be suitable for solid walls, so if you are fitting to a plasterboard or stud wall then you will require other fixings
Whilst the pedestal takes most of the weight of the basin, if you are fixing your pedestal basin onto a plasterboard or stud wall and can’t fix directly into a stud, then you may need to install a support board
Different basin designs may have different fitting requirements, so be sure to always check the manufacturer’s instructions before installing
Installing a pedestal basin is a relatively straightforward task as long as the existing plumbing does not need to be adjusted too much. However, if the position of the new basin means that plumbing needs to be rerouted, it’s best to contact a qualified plumber
If you are replacing an existing basin, then consider also replacing the plumbing, as this tends to be visible with a pedestal basin
Before starting the installation or removing the existing basin, carefully inspect your new basin and check that you have all the necessary parts and fittings
Always turn off the water supply at the mains before carrying out any plumbing work
Do it right
Ensure that you are installing your pedestal onto a flat surface
Take care not to overtighten any fixings as this can damage the ceramic. It’s best to hand-tighten or use a handheld screwdriver to secure fixings
Carefully measure and mark out fixing holes before drilling
If you are going to be drilling into tiles, apply insulating or masking tape to the tile to stop the drill bit from slipping
Use a cable and pipe detector to check any areas where you plan to drill for hidden pipes and cables
Wear safety goggles when drilling
Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles when removing an old basin
Always use cleaning products that are appropriate for your chosen basin to avoid causing any damage
Removing an existing basin
Locate the stopcock and turn it clockwise to turn off the water supply.
Turn on the taps to release the pressure in the pipes and to drain the hot water cylinder.
Loosen the nuts before removing the waste pipes and disconnecting the water pipes from the valves.
If necessary, cut the sealant before removing the existing unit. Be careful as there will still be some water left in the basin trap.
Preparing the basin
Put the pedestal into position in front of the water supply and waste pipes, then place the basin on top, making sure that is it sitting flush to the wall.
Use a spirit level to check that the basin and pedestal are level.
Lightly mark the position of the basin and pedestal onto the wall and floor. Then, mark the position of their fixing holes. If your basin has two sets of fixing holes, the larger set will be for fixing to a masonry wall and the smaller set for fixing to stud or plasterboard.
Carefully move the basin and pedestal out of the way, then use a pipe and cable detector to check that the areas around all the fixing holes are free of hidden pipes and cables.
If you are fixing to a stud wall, use a stud detector to locate the position of the studs. Here we are able to fix directly into timber studs, but if your studs aren’t lined up with the position of the fixings, you may need to install a support board.
Once the position of the basin and pedestal are clearly marked, carefully lay the basin on the floor and fit the tap. The fitting instructions and fixings will vary depending on your tap fitting, so be sure to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Then fit the basin waste. It’s best to apply some silicone to the washer to ensure a watertight seal.
Secure the washer by tightening the nut with an adjustable wrench or self-grip pliers. Wipe off any excess silicone as you go.
Installing the basin
Use a drill bit that is appropriate for your wall type to drill pilot holes (masonry walls only) at the fixing holes on the wall. Then, complete the holes. If your walls are tiled, apply masking tape to the tile before drilling.
Insert a suitable fixing into the wall. If your walls are tiled then its best to use a wall plug but if the wall is plasterboard then use a plasterboard fixing. For masonry walls, you’ll need a wall plug and fixing bolt.
If you are fixing the pedestal to a concrete floor, drill 2 x 8mm holes approximately 40mm deep then insert a wall plug into each hole until it sits flush with the floor. If you are installing on a wooden floor, drill 2 x 4mm pilot holes approximately 30mm deep.
Fit the waste trap to the waste system, ensuring washers are in the correct position and are not overtightened.
Move the pedestal back into position and place the basin on top. Make sure it is level and flush to the wall. If you are fixing onto a masonry wall, ensure the fixing bolts are through the holes in the back of the basin.
For masonry walls, tighten the washers and nuts onto the fixing bolts. For stud or plasterboard walls, insert and secure a screw on either side. Take care not to over-tighten.
Secure your pedestal to the floor by fixing two 50mm screws into your pre-drilled holes. Take care not to over-tighten.
Connect the flexi-hoses from the water supply to the tap.
Place the outlet pipe into the waste trap then hand-tighten the nut to secure it.
Apply sealant to the join between the basin and the wall and the join between the pedestal and the floor.
Leave the sealant to dry before turning on the water supply and checking for any leaks.