How to Lay Laminate Flooring

Modern laminate flooring is now a very popular choice to use in the home. It’s hard-wearing, long-lasting, and you’ve got a huge variety of styles and shades to choose from. This type of flooring is easy to maintain and is ideal for high traffic footfall areas.

Laying down flooring laminate might seem like a big project, but it’s actually quite straightforward. Thorough and careful preparation is absolutely vital if you want to avoid problems in the future, and it’s crucial to determine if your sub-floor is suitable, especially with regards to moisture content. Laminate flooring is even compatible with underfloor heating, so it’s perfect if you like a toasty home.

We’ve created this guide, along with our handy how-to video, to help you get the job done right.

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Your sub-floor must be completely clean, level, and damp-proof, and you need to use a suitable underlay like fibreboard or foam before you begin.
Unopened packs of laminate flooring need to acclimatise in the room they’ll be laid in for at least 48 hours.
You must leave a 10-12mm expansion gap around the edges of the room to allow the floorboards to expand and contract naturally over time.

Can I lay laminate flooring myself?

So, at this point you may be asking ‘Is laying laminate flooring easy enough to do myself?’ Well, thankfully there are lots of types of laminate that are designed to be simple to put together as this flooring uses some form of click-fit, or tongue and groove fitting system. Many manufacturers have patented their own designs, so be sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions for guidelines.

This guide covers how to fit laminate flooring with Rapid Fit and Twin Clic systems. The Rapid Fit system has a wider range of options and is easier to lay. It's ideal if you're laying laminate flooring alone or in a large room. Twin Clic flooring needs two people to lay it properly.

How much laminate flooring will I need?

To calculate the number of packs you need, work out the size of your room in square metres. Simply multiply the length by the width and check this against the coverage of the pack. Add an extra 10-15% for cutting and wastage. It's always better to have a little extra than to run short midway through.

Laminate flooring needs to acclimatise to the room it's going to be laid in. Store the unopened packs flat for at least 48 hours. Don't stack the packs more than three high. Preferably wedge something between each pack so the air can circulate fully around them.

Never store the packs by leaning them against the wall, which can lead to them bending. If you're laying laminate flooring onto underfloor heating then lay each pack on the floor separately, and don't stack them at all.

Preparing your sub-floor

It's essential that your sub-floor is clean, level, and damp-proof. Taking the time to prepare the floor properly is the best way to ensure your new laminate sits perfectly flat and lasts for years.

If your concrete is suitable you can apply a damp-proof membrane to ensure that no moisture gets through in the future. Alternatively, you can choose an underlay with damp-proof protection.

Because concrete is porous you'll need to check its moisture levels before laying down your floor. As a general guide you can use duct tape to securely stick down one square metre of polythene onto the concrete and leave it overnight. If your concrete is damp, water droplets will collect on the underside of the polythene.

Alternatively, you can use a professional moisture meter for a more accurate reading. Concrete sub-floors should have a moisture content of 12% or less on a prong test, or 3% or less on a moisture meter. If your concrete is too damp the cause will need to be investigated and resolved before you lay down any flooring.

If you're laying laminate flooring on floorboards or onto an old wood sub-floor, check for any loose boards and fix them down. Laminate flooring needs an underlay. If you're laying laminate flooring on wooden floors, then fibreboard underlay is very popular as it provides excellent heat insulation. It's also the best choice if your sub-floor isn't perfectly level, as it'll cover any minor protrusions up to 3mm high.

You can also find laminate flooring with integrated underlay, which makes it quicker to fit and eliminates the need for additional materials required for the project.

Do I need underlay for laminate flooring?

Yes, underlay is an important step. Underlay brings many benefits, such as noise reduction, heat insulation, added comfort underfoot, and an extended lifespan to your flooring. There are a number of different underlays suitable for use with laminate flooring.

If you're laying onto a concrete sub-floor then you need to choose an underlay with an integrated damp-proof membrane, such as foam. When you're laying foam underlay you'll need to seal any joints with waterproof tape.

You can still use fibreboard, but you'll need a separate damp-proof layer too. Fibreboard underlay needs to be laid at a 90-degree angle to the direction your flooring will be laid.

Where to start laying laminate flooring

If you're laying onto concrete or a new sub-floor then the direction you lay your floorboards is up to you. Laying towards a light source makes the joins less visible. Laying horizontally or vertically will influence the perspective of the room, making it seem wider or longer.

It's a good idea to ‘set out’ your floorboards prior to laying, so you can work out how they'll be arranged and how wide the last edge row will be. Flooring requires an expansion gap of 10-12mm around the edges to allow the wood to expand and contract naturally over time. Failure to include an expansion gap can warp and damage the floorboards in the future.

If your skirting is at least 10-12mm thick then it can be removed before fitting and reinstalled once the laminate floor is laid down. Or you can replace the skirting with flooring trim.

To work out how many rows you need, measure the width of the room and divide this by the width of a flooring panel, allowing for expansion gaps. If the width of the final row is less than 60mm you'll have to trim your first board lengthways to accommodate the necessary extra width. The aim is to avoid having edge boards which are too thin.

Setting out also helps with positioning boards which will adjoin pipes. Pipes should sit in the middle of the board’s width, not at the edges. This makes cutting much easier later on.

Start the first row in the corner of the longest wall and work your way back from there.

A step-by-step guide to laying laminate flooring

The process for fitting Rapid Fit and Twin Clic laminate flooring is basically the same, with one key difference which depends on the board locking system. This section covers both but concentrates on laying Rapid Fit laminate flooring.

Make sure you've removed any doors before you fit the flooring, as you'll need to cut into the architrave.

Before you learn how lay laminate flooring, you'll need to gather a few essential tools:

It's essential that your sub-floor is clean, level and damp-proof. Taking the time to prepare the floor properly is the best way to ensure your new laminate sits perfectly flat and lasts for years.

Line up an offcut of the floorboard with the architrave. Use a panel saw to trim the architrave so that the floorboard will fit underneath. Use a hammer and chisel to remove the excess wood.

Ensure the floor is thoroughly prepared and the underlay is in place. Starting in the corner of the longest wall, lay the first piece of laminate with its tongue edge against the wall.

Place 10-12mm flooring spacers between the wall and the board to create the expansion gap. Place a couple of spacers along the length of the board and one across the width.

Line the next board up with the end of the first and press down to click it into position. Make sure the alignment is precise, as you want the first row to be perfectly straight. Add flooring spacers to maintain the expansion gap. Repeat this process until you can't lay any more full boards.

You'll need to cut the last board to fit the gap at the end of the row. Lay a full board down next to the row you've just fitted. Flip the board upside down with the groove edge still facing you.

Measure and mark a cutting line on the underside of the board. Then secure the board in a workbench and cut with a jigsaw or panel saw. Fit the board into position to complete the first row.

If the offcut from the first row is at least 300mm long, then you can use it to start your second row from the same end that you started your first row. Never start a second row with a full-length board. You're aiming to make sure that the joints between boards are staggered across all the rows. This both looks good and provides better stability. Remember to use a flooring spacer at the start of each row, then lay down the boards by repeating the above process.

To start the second row, put a flooring spacer against the wall. Then, place the tongue edge of a new board into the groove edge of the previous row. Slot the board in from a 20–30-degree angle. Make sure the end of the board butts up against the wall spacer.

Line the next board up and press into position using the same method to make sure the tongue-and-groove system clicks into place properly. Work your way down the row and repeat for all rows until you reach the edge row.

You may need to cut boards to fit the gap in the final row, but this will have been decided when you were setting out. In which case measure the gap between the last full row and a flooring spacer. Cut the board to size and lay as normal. Remember to allow for expansion gaps.

Twin Clic laminate flooring has a different locking mechanism to Rapid Fit, but otherwise the process is exactly the same.

For Twin Clic flooring, boards in the same row are joined end-to-end by clicking them in from 20–30-degree angles.

When laying a new row, you'll have to click the boards into position along both the horizontal and vertical edges. This can prove awkward with full-length boards so it's often easier to ask someone to assist you.

How to fit laminate flooring around a door frame

First of all, make sure that the door will clear any new flooring, and a threshold bar if you're fitting one. You may end up having to trim the bottom of the door to make room. Then make sure you've cut away a section of the architrave to accommodate the new boards.

If you need to fill a gap between your board and the door, measure the distance between the outer edge of the architrave on either side. Then measure the gap between the first row and the door. Mark these measurements onto a board and cut it to size, remembering to allow a 10-12mm expansion gap at each end.

Lay the board up against the architrave and mark where you need to trim the ends so that the board will be able to slide under the architrave. If you're laying boards vertically you'll need to do this to all the boards that come into contact with the architrave. Cut along the guide marks with a jigsaw or panel saw.

In order to fit the door piece, you may have to slide a row or rows back to make room. Make sure the door piece slides under the architrave. Then continue to lay any rows as before.

If you're fitting a threshold bar be sure to choose one that's appropriate for your flooring. Carefully measure the width of the door frame, allowing for a 10-12mm expansion gap on both sides. Then cut the threshold bar to size and secure it with either grab adhesive or screws, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.

How to fit laminate flooring around radiator pipes

If you need to cut around a radiator pipe, lay your board next to the pipe and pencil a line on the board to show where the centre of the pipe will be. Then lay the same board front onto the pipe and again draw a mark from the centre of the pipe which intersects with your first line. Where the two lines intersect marks where you need to drill.

Clamp the board to a workbench and use a 32mm flat wood drill bit to drill a hole. A 32mm hole allows for expansion of the pipe, because radiator pipes are usually 15mm wide.

Draw a pair of straight lines from the edges of the hole to the edge of the board. Each line should run at a slight outward angle.

Use a jigsaw or hacksaw to cut along these lines. Remove the wedge but keep it as you'll need it later. Fit the board into position around the radiator pipe. You may need to trim the profile edge with a chisel. Lay down the board, then push the wedge back into place using grab adhesive. Add a pipe surround for a neat finish, securing it with grab adhesive.

Fitting laminate skirting and trim

If your original skirting covers the expansion gaps, then refit it now. Alternatively, you can use floor trim, especially if you've laid down flooring without removing the skirting. Remove the flooring spacers and measure the lengths of flooring trim you'll need.

Use a mitre box and panel saw to make accurate 45-degree cuts at the ends that'll join in the corners.

Fix the flooring trim in place using grab adhesive. Don't fix the trim to the flooring, as this prevents natural expansion of the floorboards. Fit only to the wall or skirting boards. If necessary you can also hold the trim in place using panel pins.

Laying laminate flooring tips and common mistakes

A regular mistake is forgetting to leave the 10-12mm expansion gap. Without this gap, your beautiful new floor could warp and get damaged over time.

Another common error is using a full-length board to start your second row. You must make sure that the joints between boards are staggered to provide better stability.

How do you lay a herringbone flooring pattern?

When you open a box of herringbone flooring, you'll find two different types of plank. They have the tongue and groove on opposite sides, which is what allows you to create patterns like herringbone, fishbone or block designs.

The most important thing is to keep the two types of plank separate while you work. And because our herringbone option often comes with built-in underlay, you'll find that getting started is much quicker.

Where the job can get a little trickier is fitting the planks around the edge of your room. If you choose to lay the floor on the diagonal, which is the most common choice, you'll need to make a lot of 45-degree cuts.

If this puts you off, don't worry. There's a detailed installation video from the manufacturer, Novocore.

Laying down laminate flooring is quite straightforward once you know how. Thorough and careful preparation is absolutely vital if you want to avoid problems in the future

Always remember to prepare your sub-floor properly and let your flooring packs acclimatise before you start.

Take your time and you'll soon be enjoying a beautiful new floor that you can be proud of. And don't forget that you can find all the tools and accessories you'll need for your project right here at Wickes.

If your new flooring runs into any issues in the future, you’ll be pleased to know you don’t need to refit the whole thing! Take a look at our guide on how to replace laminate flooring.

FAQs

Carpeting over laminate flooring is not recommended as a long-term solution as it can cause damage to the laminate, and it make cause doors to stick due to the increased height of the floor.

To lay laminate flooring on stairs, cut your tread, riser and nosing pieces to size before you begin. Working from the top of the stairs downwards, apply high-quality wood glue to secure the tread flat on the step and the riser to the vertical face. Next, apply glue to the subfloor to fit the stair nosing, secure it with wood screws, and cover the screw holes with flooring filler.

To protect your laminate flooring from moisture rising up from the sub-floor. you'll need to use a damp-proof membrane or an underlay with integrated damp-proof protection, like foam. Just remember that when you're laying foam underlay, you'll need to seal any joints with waterproof tape.

If you need flooring for a wet area, you might want to consider luxury vinyl flooring as an alternative. Options like our Wickes herringbone flooring and Novocore luxury vinyl click flooring are 100% waterproof right out of the box, making them a really practical, easy-to-clean choice for your home.