- We are going to show you how to build custom outdoor storage, step by step.
- It provides the perfect additional storage for boots, bikes and bins, protecting them from the weather, keeping them locked away securely and tucking away anything unsightly.
- This custom outdoor storage is built completely to the dimensions of whatever you want to store. So, you get complete freedom when it comes to size and design.
- All of the materials used are available from Wickes.
- It should take a DIYer with moderate skill approximately two to three days to build.
- Make sure to measure the available space and consider access, sightlines and location.
- Choose timber that can stand up to the elements - it’s going to be exposed to rain and wind outside during the colder months.
- When working with exterior paint and brushes, work slowly to apply thin and even coats until you have your desired coverage.
- Always make sure that your chop saw is unplugged while you’re setting it up or changing accessories, to ensure your safety.
- Keeping the plug in-sight acts as a visual reminder to prevent accidents and hazards.
- For extra safety when using power tools and painting, be sure to wear protective equipment, including your ear defenders, goggles and a dust mask.
Measure the depth, height and width of the bin or bins you plan to store in your custom outdoor storage.
Measure the height and length of your bike, or consider how much space you’d require if you plan to store multiple bikes.
Make sure to give yourself some extra space on all of your measurements. This helps you make sure the storage area isn’t too tight and makes it easier to accommodate your items.
If including your boot stand, make sure to measure its depth, height and width as well.
Deciding your design
This build guide will give you the principles of building the store, but the project itself is completely bespoke.
Cutting timber and calculating the roof angle
Once you have your measurements and your design, cut your timber and cladding to size.
Make sure you support the ends of longer lengths when cutting them.
Now you can make your angled cuts according to your measurements.
Dry lay your frames one at a time, placing them in position.
Butt join the frames together to form the roof.
We used tongue and groove, but it’s up to you when it comes to the cladding you use.
Lift the frame onto your workbench and trim away any overhang.
Flip the frame over and go over it with sandpaper, before repeating these steps for all remaining sides.
Adding diagonal frame
Assuming your workbench is square, clamp your frame to the workbench in one corner and use it to make sure the corners are sitting at 90°.
Putting it together
Clamp your fence posts into position on the cladded side panel.
Build up the store panel-by-panel using the fence posts, then dry lay each roof panel on top of the structure.
Adding the roof
Check that your roof panels are straight and aligned.
Clamp them into position.
Screw them in from underneath.
Start on the lower end and lay your roofing tiles so that they’re overlapping one another.
We used corrugated roof tiles as they’re stronger, which is essential to support the weight of the roof garden.
We calculated this so that the frames create cross-beams, which can be screwed into.
Leave an overhang at the lower end so that water can easily run off.
By overlapping the roof tiles and aligning them with the cross-beams, it allows you to fix through both materials directly into the beam below.
Fixing handles to the doors
Screw the hinges into the frame.
Fit your handles in the desired spots.
Check that everything is screwed into the solid frame structure.
Adding the fascia
It helps to have a second person for this step, but it can be done alone.
If you used temporary screws, filling the holes gives it a more seamless look.
Adding the mesh
Sealing the roof
Planting on the roof
Put down a layer of 10mm gravel.
Then put down a layer of your chosen compost.