How to Box in Pipes in the Bathroom

Boxing in pipes is a technical task that creates a beautiful, uniform look in your bathroom. It’s also a great way to tidy up exposed plumbing and start feeling house proud again. With the right know-how, basic DIY knowledge, and necessary equipment, you will be able to box in a pipe all by yourself.

Whether you need pipe boxing ideas, want to know how to box in vertical pipes, or are simply tackling some radiator pipe boxing, we have you covered. And we have included our helpful how-to video to support you every step of the way, or read on for our guide on how to box in pipes.

Useful links

MATERIALS

SAFETY

USEFUL LINKS

Materials required to build pipe boxing include sturdy timber for the frame, cut plywood panels, wall plugs, and screws to secure the structure in place.
The best methods for concealing water pipes involve measuring your space, securing a timber frame to the wall and floor, and attaching plywood over the top to neatly hide the plumbing.
You can finish your project by decorating pipe boxing to blend with your room, which is often done by applying tile adhesive, securing matching tiles, and sealing the edges with grout and silicone.

Planning and preparation

Before you begin your pipe boxing bathroom project, make sure you have cleared the area for a safe space to work in. For extra safety when using power tools, be sure to wear protective equipment, including ear defenders, goggles, and a dust mask.

Step-by-step guide to encase plumbing pipes

First, take your piece of timber and line it up with the top of your bathroom pipes. Now take your spirit level and place it on top of your timber to ensure it is level, then draw a line with your pencil above the timber.

Use your tape measure and a pencil to mark drilling holes every 30cm. Line up your drill guide and use a diamond tile drill bit to drill your holes. To prevent your drill from overheating whilst drilling through tiles, dip the end of the drill bit in water.

Fit your wall plugs into the holes and use a hammer to secure them into the wall.

Take your timber and place it on top of an offcut of timber to avoid drilling into the floor. Then, use a tape measure and make the same markings on the timber so they match up with the holes on your wall.

Replace your tile drill bit with a wood drill bit and drill pilot holes into the timber.

Then screw the timber into your fixed wall plug, using your spirit level to ensure the timber sits in line with your pipes below.

Using a tape measure and pencil, measure from the wall to the desired width of your box and draw a line marking where the floor timber will sit.

Mark the baton with a pencil every 30cm. Lay your second piece of timber down and drill pilot holes into the markings.

Screw the timber in place using screws deep enough to screw 1cm or so into the floorboards, to avoid hitting any pipes or wires.

Measure the distance from the wall to your floor timber, and the height from the floor to the top of the wall timber. You may also need to measure the length of the box as well.

Lay out your plywood panel, make pencil markings of your measurements, and use your spirit level to draw a guideline.

Lock your plywood to your worktable with G clamps.

Use your circular saw to cut down the line and then repeat this for the top length of plywood.

Bring your two pieces of freshly sawn plywood back to your bathroom. Drill pilot holes every 15cm into the plywood, then drill screws through the plywood into the supporting timber blocks on both the front and top to secure your box.

Line your tiles up with the plywood and mark them with a pencil. Take into consideration the width of the side tile when measuring, so they sit flush with one another when the top tile and trim is in place.

Prepare your tile saw and cut across the lines you have drawn.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, add your adhesive powder and water to a mixing bucket until you hit the right consistency.

Use an adhesive spreader trowel to scoop your mixture onto the plywood boxing and spread it in a thick coat. Push your cut tiles onto the mixture and press down firmly, placing spacers into the seams.

Use a wet sponge to wipe away any excess adhesive and leave it to dry.

Make sure your grout is mixed, then apply with a grout float in between the tiles.

Once the grout has dried, wipe away any excess with a wet sponge.

Once everything is dry, apply a bead of silicone along the edge of the tiles that are against the wall and use a silicone finishing tool to get a clean finish.

Pipe boxing ideas and alternatives

If you are looking for an alternative to boxing in pipes with heavy timber and tiles, PVC pipe boxing is a lightweight, wipe-clean option.

When dealing with low-level plumbing along the floor, skirting boxing pipes are a clever way to keep things tidy.

If you are boxing in heating pipes under a window or boxing in boiler pipes, always ensure you leave adequate ventilation.

FAQs

The main advantage is a neat, professional finish that hides unsightly plumbing. The slight drawback is that it covers up the pipes, meaning you must carefully plan how you will access them if you ever face a leak.

Maintaining access to boxed in pipes is incredibly important. You can easily achieve this by leaving one plywood panel secured only with screws rather than tile adhesive, or by installing a small, discreet access hatch into your framework.

To soundproof pipe boxing, simply wrap your internal pipes in acoustic insulation or pack the empty void inside your timber frame with acoustic mineral wool before you screw the outer plywood panels into place.