How to Tile a Bathroom Splashback

When undergoing a tiling project in your bathroom, your number one aim is to create a space that’s fully waterproof, especially in the shower or bath region. To do this, you’ll want to tile your bathroom splashback in a certain way, so you can enjoy your daily washes with peace of mind that mould, mildew and other water damage won’t occur.

Here's our easy step-by-step guide on how to do it yourself.

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To tile a bathroom splashback, all you need to do is prepare the surface by making sure it’s clean and waterproof, consider the tile placement you want to achieve, cut the tiles, prepare the adhesive, lay the tiles and then finally grout them. Achieving a water-resistant and professional-looking finish.

Why should you tile a bathroom splashback?

The main reason to tile your bathroom splashback is to prevent water damage from taking place, including mould growth, peeling paint and also structural damage like swelling or crumbling of the plaster. It also makes cleaning much easier while adding a stylish and durable finish to a bathroom.

Choosing the right tile size for a bathroom splashback

When choosing your desired tile size, you’ll want to consider style and practicality. Small tiles can add texture and make a room look more detailed, especially if it’s a small bathroom. Medium tiles are easy to install and work well in most bathrooms. Whereas large tiles are much sleeker and modern, are ideal for larger bathrooms and create fewer grout lines, making them easier to clean.

Step-by-step guide to tiling a bathroom splashback

Find out how is best to tile a bathroom splashback, ensuring professional-looking results and effective protection against moisture.

You’ll need to install tile backer boards that are suitable for use in wet and humid areas onto your wall before you start tiling. New changes to British standards don’t allow tiles to be installed directly onto plywood, so these backers provide a safer, water-resistant, and more stable alternative.

All you need to do is cut your panels to size and screw them into the wall with a drill and specialised corrosion-protected screws, such as stainless steel.

Then seal your walls using a primer to reduce porosity levels.

When tiling a bath or shower splashback, you’ll need to add a few steps to make sure the wall is fully waterproof. This process is called ‘tanking’.

To do this, apply jointing tape to the joins in the backing boards and brush Aqua Defence or tanking solution over the entire wall, covering it completely. This requires two coats to make sure your walls are fully waterproofed.

Make sure to apply sealing or jointing tape around the bath too.

There are a few different ways to lay tiles, such as the straight lay design that you can see here.

If you’ve already tiled some of your wall, make some measurements to ensure your splashback tiling matches this placement. You’ll also want your wall to match your floor, so take measurements of those tiles and mark them on the wall too. Don’t forget to account for the gaps between the tiles when measuring up.

It’s a good idea to use a spirit level so your markings are at a perfect 90-degree angle.

For smaller sections of your wall, you’ll need to cut your tiles to size. Measure the area and transfer these measurements onto your tiles, again making sure you’re subtracting the gaps between the tiles.

When tiling around a bath, you’ll come across sections where you’ll need to cut out a small notch from your tile or cut holes for your water pipes. Mark these instances onto the tile too.

Use a manual scribe for straight cuts, an electric tile cutter or grinder for notches, and a drill with a diamond-tip hole cutter for any pipes.

When preparing your adhesive, check the manufacturer’s instructions for the ideal water-to-product ratio. Then use a drill and whisk to mix the adhesive with water until you get a consistency that’s thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to spread easily.

When you’re done, clean the whisk in a bucket of clean water to prevent the adhesive from building up.

Apply the adhesive to the wall using the notched side of your spreader. Straight, uniform lines help to avoid creating air bubbles, so you get a stronger bond.

Then you’ll need to ‘backbutter’ the tile, which means using the straight side of the spreader to cover the surface in adhesive. Apply a smooth layer and scrape any excess adhesive back into the bucket.

Place the tile onto the wall in line with your measurements, pushing down on all sides.

Put spacers in the gaps to make sure everything is evenly spaced.

Use a spirit level to ensure all the tiles are flush. Continue this method across the wall.

If you find you’ll need to tile around a window, there are a few extra steps.

Measure the length of the window ledge and use a saw to cut a piece of trim to size.

File the cut ends down so there are no sharp edges.

Then measure the depth of the ledge and mark your tiles for cutting.

Cut the tiles with a manual scribe or cutter.

Dry fit them onto the ledge, accounting for the 3mm gap in between, and making sure they match up to the tile pattern you’ve already created in the wall.

Apply adhesive to the trim and place it onto the edge of the ledge.

Lay your ledge tiles down with adhesive and let them set before you continue up the sides as they’ll need to dry before they can take any weight.

Once set, repeat these steps for all four sides of the window. When you get to the top, make sure you’re using enough adhesive and push the tiles down extra hard, so they don’t fall off. The adhesive should be strong enough but it’s best to make sure.

You may also need to cut some tiles when finishing the area around the window. Make your measurements to work out how your tiles will need to be cut. It’s a good idea to make sure the tiles below the window match up with the tiles above.

To cut large L-shaped notches out of your tiles, use a grinder. For tiles that just need a single straight cut, use a manual scribe.

Check your adhesive’s packaging to find out how long it needs to set. Once set, remove the spacers.

Mix your grout with clean water according to the instructions on the packaging. Then mix with a drill and whisk until you get the perfect consistency. It should be thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to fill the grooves between your tiles.

Starting at the top of the wall, place the grout over the joins and gently work it into the gaps with a grout float, making sure it’s flush with the tiles.

Leave it to partially dry and wipe off any excess with a damp sponge. Be careful not to apply too much pressure at this stage so you don’t pull any grout out of the wall. It’s also a good idea to wipe across the joins rather than along them for the same reason.

We recommend opting for epoxy grout as it’s waterproof, stain-resistant, mould-resistant and much more durable compared to cement grout.

If it’s freshly done, use a damp sponge and wipe it in circular motions to remove most of the haze before it begins to harden. Keep rinsing the sponge throughout. After your grout has then firmed, you may still see a light haze but this should come off with a buff using a soft, dry cloth. For any stubborn areas, use a grout haze remover or a diluted vinegar solution (not suitable for natural stone).

Before you start sealing, thoroughly clean the area. This is important as any dust or dirt will be permanently visible once it sets.

Pipe sealant all the way along where the wall meets the floor and the top of the bath or shower. You’ll also need to seal any corners where two walls meet.

Then use a sealant shape tool to scrape away any excess and create a clean, consistent look.

How long does it take to tile a bathroom splashback?

It can take anywhere between 20-24 hours for small spaces, plus 24 hours for the adhesive to dry before you begin to grout. Once you’ve applied grout and you clean up the space, you’re looking at a project length of around 2 days.

Can a bathroom splashback be tiled over?

Yes, as long as the original tiles are in good condition and clean, secure, and free from cracks or mould.When following these steps, you’ll be left with a professional-looking, waterproofed shower and bath area. If you found this bathroom tiling guide helpful, discover our advice on tiling a bath panel.

Different tile layouts for bathroom splashbacks

There are several tile patterns and layouts you can opt for, each with their own look:

Subway layout - classic staggered pattern, timeless and versatile

Straight layout - tiles lined up neatly for a clean, modern look.

Herringbone - creates a striking, stylish feature with lots of movement.

Vertical stacked - great for making walls look taller and more contemporary.

Diagonal - adds interest and can make small areas feel bigger.

Mosaic - ideal for adding texture, colour variation or a feature strip.

Troubleshooting common problems when tiling a bathroom splashback

You may encounter some issues while tiling your splashback, so here’s our advice on how to avoid them.

This is usually down to an uneven wall or inconsistent adhesive. You should use tile spacers and a spirit level when applying adhesive for this reason.

This often happens on smooth surfaces and can be prevented by using non-slip tile adhesive and working in smaller sections.

This occurs when grout is applied too soon or when there’s movement. Always allow adhesive to fully cure first and use flexible grout.

This is down to lack of waterproofing of the wall. Always use a waterproof membrane or backer board before tiling.

This is due to dust, grease or an unsuitable surface. Make sure to clean walls properly and use the correct adhesive for your tile type.